Rainbow mountain

September 28, 2023


Preparation for Rainbow Mountain

In Cusco there are pictures of the Rainbow Mountain many places. I quickly booked the trip. One day I meet Ernesto from Peru’s jungle. He arranges tours that do not show in the posters. The real Peru he says. There are many Rainbow Mountains in Peru to experience with few tourists and in own pace. I cancel my existing booking and book with Ernesto.

Before we go I pack my bag with all local advice against altitude sickness. 

Anne-Kathrine Christensen at Mountain Quillapunchu

Anne-Kathrine Christensen at the Rainbow Mountain Quillapunchu near the village Layo in Peru.

Compassion rather than medicine

After around 6 hours public transportatation from Cusco we arrive to the village Layo. Ernesto arranges that we can sleep in a small hostel for 20 soles each (around 5 USD). 

We visit the lake Langui Layo. It’s dark but it looks so inviting to take a dip. It is said that if people go in they never come back. I see light shine down from the moon that is soon full.

We find food in the local store and go to bed early. In this village people go to bed around 8pm and wake up around 5am. It’s colder here than in Cusco and I am happy to be sleeping with 4 blankets and clothes on.

I cannot sleep and during the night I struggle with the altitude sickness. I consider to take the medicine I bought at a pharmacy in Peru but I do not want to expose my body for the possible side effects. I feel a deep compassion and feel self love – the altitude sickness feels to effect me less. Shortly after I sleep. 


Maca, coca leaves and breathwork

Maca before the walk at Rainbow Mountain

In the morning I am surprisingly fresh even though I just had a few hours of sleep. My head feels good. 

We start the day with Maca I only knew was good for men’s fertility jeg ellers kun troede var for mænds fertilitet but Ernesto informs it is also can help give energy to our trip. I get an egg too and then we get a taxi to the starting point. When we get out of the car we chew coca leaves. I also had some earlier to prepare agains altitude sickness.  I feel how little oxygen there is in around 4000 meters  altitude. I struggle to breathe and my body calls for very slow walking. Despacito. I feel my stomach along the way. Altitude sickness can make people puke.  I take deep breaths that help to feel good again. My head also feels good.  I take many breaks and after around 2 hours we reach the top. 

Amazing beauty turns into danger zone

The view feels as the most beautiful I have ever seen. I feel amazing reaching the top and in my joyride I follow Ernesto at the mountain top to the place he says has the most beautiful view. Suddenly I feel I slide easily and I see stones falling down the mountain. In a moment the magical view is transformed to a danger zone.

I am on the verge of tears and close to panic. My nervous system is activated and I experience my hands shake. I ask Ernesto to stop saying “dangerous” and take my hand. He shows me where to put my foot to get to safety.

I feel my foot on the mountain side and say comforting words to the part of me that is terrified.

With the same concenstration as I focus on my breathing in meditation I focus on taking the next step towards safety. One slow step at a time I get out of the danger zone and into the safety zone.


Meditation Moon Temple Cusco Peru

Release and deep gratitude

I go to lie down next to two German turister who also find their way to the mountain. They said they were lucky to find an agency that wanted to take them from Cusco.

Lying down I laugh and shake in release. The body’s natural way to handle an experience that was too much too fast.  

I feel deeply grateful and powerful to take care of myself and appreciate the help from Ernesto to get to safety.

The Love Mystery

Love has has tight conditions in a time where many have busy lives, more and more experience stress, and we are bombarded with data from media and tech-giants. We can get challenged to feel the most important in life.

Anne-Kathrine Kjær Christensen has left Denmark and travels the world to follow her mission to learn more about love and how to integrate it in everyday life. She shares in a blog and works on finishing a book.


Anne-Kathrine Kjær Christensen

Melholvej 13

9220 Aalborg Ø

WhatsApp: +45 40896007

E-mail: akchristensen@gmail.com

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